PFW FW17 is coming to an end… so it’s about damn time to have a look at our season’s favorites. It was actually pretty hard to make a selection, Paris still is the Godfather of all fashion weeks. But after some long discussions and a fight or two we managed to get our list done. Let’s have a look.
For his second collection for Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello once again chose to show in the new and still under construction Saint Laurent HQ on Rue de Bellechasse. The Italo-Belgian designer is still rebranding the iconic French fashion house. He’s doing that by creating some of the most daring and sexual campaigns, like the one where he freed the nipple. The designer’s fall winter 2017 collection also included some bold statements. The showstopping crystal boots are going to be a thing next season, no doubt. Rihanna already whore them in Paris a few days ago.
We’re still very excited about Vaccarello for Saint Laurent. He’s doing the brand good and slowly rebranding it in a good way.
What happens when Marie Antoinette meets the girls from TLC and they exchange clothes? And what happens when you also invite Glenn Martens and you let him work his magic? Indeed, you get the Y/Project FW17 collection. Street inspired silhouettes with a great ornamental touch, we like! Honestly, this is one of the best collections we’ve seen the past weeks.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten’s 100th show was something to remember. Not alone was the collection quite good, he also did something special with the casting of his models. To celebrate his 100th show, the designer casted models who previously walked in his shows, up to his very first show. As a result of that, the Dries Van Noten show was packed with some of the most iconic models like Hannelore Knuts, Caroline de Maigret and Kristina de Coninck. Just to namedrop a few.
As for the collection itself, the use of Van Noten’s perennial muses was a good thing. It hid the fact that this collection wasn’t as show stopping as we are used to. Don’t get us wrong, it still was a very good collection. Maybe our standards for a Dries Van Noten collection are just too high. But if you have a look at the designer’s menswear collection for next fall, you’ll see a stronger and bolder collection than its female counterpart.
One year ago we couldn’t mind comparing Demna Gvasalia’s first Balenciaga creations with what he does for Vetements. This season, it has much more become a collection on its own. Less grungy streetwear and a more sophisticated casual touch. For women who like to dress up but not in a boring classical way. And who don’t mind a good old dose of spandex.
Staging of the Off-White fall/winter 2017 runway show was similar to their menswear show, a winding path amidst a blanket of dried leaves. With Bella Hadid opening, the show was set off to a strong start. The FW17 line is filled with grey plaid prints and denim statement pieces. We also spotted black latex boots with “for walking” printed on them in white bold letters. These will be inside the closets of every self proclaimed fashionista next season… we’re telling you!
This was the very last collection Clare Waight Keller designed for Chloé. And definitely not the most exciting one. But we forgive her since for the past 6 years she took the brand to another bohemian level. The FW17 show seemed to lack coherence. It was just a bit of this and a bit of that. A lot of different elements put into a some kind of whole. However, that look with the red oversized sweater and 80’s tricolore sweatpants is just perfection. We see ourselves wearing that the entire upcoming winter.
The Dior show is one of those things we’re always looking forward to. As we all know, Maria Chiuri made her debut at Dior last season. For her second collection, the Italian designer seemed to be very inspired by… the color blue.
Time for a musical interlude…
The collection was literally filled with blue silhouettes. You’d think it would be boring but we actually liked it. However we also believe that Maria Grazia Chiuri’s designs are stronger off than on the runway.
Accessory-wise the collection was very much on point. Those barets and the crossbody bag with original blue logo. We can already tell you right now these will be the most wanted items next season.
When hearing this name, most of us will think of the iconic perfume bottle (the blue one called Angel, yes). But most of all Mugler is specialized in ready-to-wear. Up till 2015 this was a show you didn’t event want your grandma to see. But since they hired David Koma, things really changed for the better. We especially adored the blue jacket Natasha Poly wore while opening the show. This might even remind you of something…
British country girls who just bought their first Vogue and went shopping in Paris.(We’re not talking about the ones you see all around Spain here. But the ones with a basic sense of style. – Ed.) And they’re enjoying it. This is what the Stella McCartney collection is about for us. She isn’t the most renewing designer out there. But what she does is always good, this season even better.
There’s a lot to say about Balmain lately. Camille Bidault-Waddington, who is a freelance stylist, said the following; “Nobody gives a shit about Balmain today, but Olivier Rousteing has become an Instagram It-boy and that gives the house a reason to go on existing. Nobody talks about Balmain clothes anymore – all people talk about is the image of the brand. The Kardashians. Tha Parties. Olivier Rousteing.”
We kind of agree with that, althoug we do think that the designer’s latest collection for the French house is a step in the right direction. Unlike last seasons, Rousteing tried to do something new and opted for few new silhouettes. It’s like he finally realised he had to do something new and desperately threw some things in there. We liked some of the new things, but it all looked kind of messy.
Photo credits: Vogue Runway