Matija Max Vidovic

21 Feb 2023
Fashion

The Revival of Killer Heels

Fashion months are finally back. But before we get bombarded by Fall/Winter ’23 moments and looks, we are glancing over some of our favorite bits from Spring/Summer ‘23. Spray-on garments, supermodels in the making, condom gloves, eerie amounts of twins, Anne Hathaway as Andy Sachs, mud, and Cher! Yes, so many iconic moments and trends that we will bring into the upcoming seasons. However, there is one particular trend that we are absolutely obsessing about: killer heels.

They are back, and they are more dangerous than ever. Before we dig into last year’s spine-chilling tumbles, trips, and falls, let us take a trip down memory lane.

Vivienne Westwood, Naomi Campbell, and The Floor

A little trip, tumble, or fall can happen to any model. Even veterans like Naomi Campbell and Kristen McMenamy are not immune to killer heels. Naomi’s iconic fall occurred during the 1993 Vivienne Westwood show, and that beautiful sky-high, purple, lace-up platform takes all the blame.

One would think that this microscopic mishap would be quickly forgotten, yet it followed the supermodel throughout the entirety of her career. Naomi was even reunited with the notorious killer heel in 2013 during The Jonathan Ross Show—successfully conquering the shoes in question. The model re-visited the events that took place on the Parisian runway once again in 2019, with Vivienne Westwood herself for British Vogue. Naomi’s fall was monumental and iconic. So iconic that many designers were ready to pay top dollar for Naomi to fake a fall during one of their shows. But the Vivienne Westwood platform still remains the only shoe that brought Naomi Campbell to her knees.

The Higher The Shoe, The Closer To God

The year was 2008, and Miuccia Prada just presented her Spring ’09 ready-to-wear collection in Milan. One of the more iconic Prada collections to date; just ask any seasoned fashionista who likes a good pop culture moment. The collection was so tenderly suggestive, with highlights on natural construction, ’50s silhouettes, and pure Italian glamor. But then there goes that controversial yet alluring shoe—or better yet, shoes. As Prada girls trickled down the runway, attendees couldn’t help but notice the sheer struggle these killer heels bestowed.

Not one, but two models ended up teetering and *gracefully* falling on the runway, and one model decided to do the grand finale with no shoes at all. It left Prada fanatics with divided opinions. Some critics blamed it on the styling (the pairing of the shoe with toe-length socks), and some blamed the heel for being too high. Others vouched that the shoe was a piece of art and that the slow and careful model struts left people hyper-fixated on the garments. No matter the reason, Miuccia’s Spring 2009 show falls into that timelessly chic category in fashion history (pun intended).

Belgian model Hanne Gaby Odiele on the Prada Spring 2009 runway, by Marcio Madeira

We Say, King Of Fashion, You say, Alexander McQueen

Now that we’re talking about killer heels, it would be a shame not to mention the shoe that rules them all. British Vogue labeled them as one of the 20 most iconic shoes of all time, adored by many (including Daphne Guinness, Kelis, and Lady Gaga), yet feared and hated by numerous industry insiders. If you still hadn’t guessed, we are, of course, referring to Alexander McQueen’s ‘Armadillo Shoe’ from his last collection Plato’s Atlantis.

It is no secret that the late Alexander McQueen was—or still is—the King of Fashion and the master of his craft. Yet, his last collection Plato’s Atlantis was such a Herculean moment in fashion history—so ahead of its time—that we are yet to place it in a certain period of fashion and era. However, the infamous ‘Armadillo shoe’ got a great deal of mixed reviews at that time. But everyone, and we do mean everyone, was talking about it. The Paris Review labeled them “aggressively ugly”, and Sarah Mower titled them as “grotesque shoes that looked like the armored heads of a fantastical breed of antediluvian sea monster” for Vogue Runway in 2009. And us? Almost 13 years later, we are still left speechless.

The 30-centimeter shoe, with a 23-centimeter spike heel, with an armadillo/lobster-like silhouette left industry supermodels in pure shock and terror. Slavic beauties and industry giants like Natasha Poly and Sasha Pivovarova declined to participate in this iconic show due to their concerns for their safety. It all sounds incredibly spooky and scary. Still, all the models that did decide to walk a mile in Alexander’s killer heels left the runway without a single scratch, tumble, or fall, which is—to put it lightly—praiseworthy.

Ain’t No High Heel High Enough

Back in the day, fashion was way more dramatic, and people paid close attention to small yet important details. Nowadays, these small important details take shape in the form of TikTok videos and trends. But, hey, power to the people! This brings us to Valentino’s Spring 2023 ready-to-wear collection.

During SS23 Paris Fashion Week, Pierpaolo Piccioli said goodbye to the charming fuchsia pink from FW 22/23, and Valentino models said, “au revoir,” to their shoes. Pierpaolo introduced several new faces on his runway, probably with the hopes of letting the garments speak for themselves without any supermodel or nepo baby fillers. Unfortunately, it seems like this idea backfired. Big time. In case you missed what transpired at Valentino, no worries, TikTok has got you covered. Models tumbling, teetering, missing their exits and entrances, taking off, and losing shoes; it was hectic, to say the least.

Valentino shoes on the Spring/Summer 2023 runway

This begs a lot of questions: was it mass-model hysteria? Beginner’s (bad) luck? Poor styling choices? Lack of runway experience? Or was it just killer heels? At the end of the day, does it really matter? Well, it kind of does, doesn’t it? Nonetheless, Pierpaolo Piccioli presented another strong collection with his take on logomania, caped dresses, sequins, and feathered trims. The collection went on to live its best life on red carpets, and we can’t wait to see even more of it. We also can’t wait to see Valentino’s newcomer models booked and busy; these fashion soldiers deserve it …

Drop-Dead Gorgeous

Killer heels have been around for as long as we can remember, and Valentino is only one of the many brands that re-introduced drop-dead gorgeous shoes for the upcoming seasons. Balmain, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Saint Laurent, Maison Schiaparelli, Proenza Schouler, Vivienne Westwood, Marc Jacobs, Fendi, and even Dior—gasps in Maria Grazia Chiuri—all took a slice of this killer cake. A lot successfully as well! One brand took this trend to a whole new level during Milan Fashion Week, and maybe even foreshadowed some moments that took place during Paris Fashion Week.

Model purposely falling on the AVAVAV runway

Beate Karlsson sent each and every model tumbling and falling during the AVAVAV runway debut last September in Milan. Beate’s meme-worthy designs have been sending people and media into a frenzy for a while now. The Filthy Rich collection for AVAVAV is no different: a perfectly commercial collection with no compromises on the ‘conceptual’ side of things. The collection itself is a dig at how often fashion collides with luxury and riches, even during trying times like recession and global downturns. Beate stayed true to her whacky aesthetics when it came to footwear; she replaced the intimidating chicken leg shoes with more commercially acceptable moon boots and feet-like knee-high heels.

In short, whether you like it or not, killer heels are a paramount piece of fashion history, and now they’re back in full force—more dangerous than ever. It’s finally time to bring out the highest of the highs and show off your best tumble and fall. Whether you’re returning home post-clubbing, or you’re going off to brunch, tumbling, tripping, and falling are in again!

TERMS & CONDITIONS – MoMu x Enfnts Terribles Giveaway The Antwerp Six We are doing a giveaway with MoMu Fashion Museum Antwerp. Please find the terms and conditions below.
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