ENFNTSTERRIBLES

11 May 2023
Fashion
Life & Culture

INTERVIEW: Hugo Comte About Growing up in the Industry and His Inspiration

French photographer Hugo Comte is one of the most memorable names in the game right now. The artist is known for his work with Dua Lipa on her ‘Future Nostalgia’ album cover and Bella Hadid for the cover of POP Magazine. Besides commercial photography, the artist focuses more on his artistry with the collection ‘The Testament’ and a new movie soon to be released. Scroll down for a peak into the mind of this young creative.

Can you tell us a bit about your journey? What led you to photography?

In the first place, I used photography as a tool to study architecture. Photography was a way of capturing light, space, and texture. I could understand a place better from the way it’s captured. Step by step it evolved from taking pictures of something that exists to creating what I take pictures of. I started making sculptures with concrete, wood, and different fabrics and take these sculptures, put them under the light, and take pictures of them. Later I started to use models and moved slowly toward fashion. Somewhere along my journey, I stopped to do architecture and only did photography. It went from a tool to study, to a tool to express.

Hugo Comte at Black Gallery

Did you always have a relationship with fashion, or did it grow more naturally through your work?

It’s funny because I forgot about this, but I started to design fashion before I did photography. I remember, when I was studying architecture, I read the book Atmospheres by Swiss architect Peter Zumthor. In the book, he explains how he makes buildings based on atmosphere, and he has nine points on how he constructs space. When I was in university, sometimes I wouldn’t listen to the professor but draw T-shirts. I remember I drew this T-shirt where you could place patches in different shapes and colors and design something new every morning. Actually, I started to like fashion, and later, I started to do photography.

You have done some big things at a very young age. How does your age influence your work and who you work with?

It’s very challenging because there are a lot of situations where it’s almost like a handicap. Because I’m so young, people don’t give me the credibility of experience. It’s almost like talent is not enough, experience has to be there. Especially when you work in a commercial context like photography and fashion. I think in art, people don’t think age is a factor. You can be 18 and a genius, and people would still care about you. But in fashion, there’s also a bit of jealousy. In French, we say, “à double trenchant.” It means a double edge. My work can be interesting and good, almost a hype, but at the same time, people will not give me the credibility that I deserve based on my talent because I’m so young.

 

Is there anywhere you look to for inspiration? Or does it come from different places?

I stay very close to my references and my imagination. For me, inspiration can be something you see every day, and that starts to influence you. For example, you see someone in the street, and two years later, you dress like them. All these inspiring images are layers in my brain, and then later, when I create something, all these images come together. But there are a lot of times where it’s just a random process, like with The Eye where there’s no inspiration. It’s just me meeting a bucket in a desert and taking a picture of it.

Bella Hadid by Hugo Comte

Do you think it’s important to post your work on social media and to be seen?

Yes, for sure. I sometimes ask myself: thirty years ago, would I’ve had the same career, or would it have taken me fifteen years to get where I am now? I was maybe one of the first new photographers who benefited from this instant wide visibility of social media. That’s why it went so fast.

When did you feel a shift happening in your work?

Of course, there were different steps, but one step was this cover I did for Interview Germany. It was the first time I got a proper budget to produce images. Having funds gives me more freedom and allows me to tweak every element with no limitation of budget. That was a really good feeling because I didn’t have to worry about how we had to do something. It was just about taking all the elements and executing the idea. Getting funding was the turning point.

What defines a signature Hugo Comte image, according to Hugo Comte?

The thing is, if I think about my work, I don’t think about what I just did, but I think about all the things I want to do. It’s a whole lifetime full of ideas that are completely different. Not only because of the style but also because of the medium. I have a movie coming out in a few weeks, an amazing sculpture project, CGI digitally-generated art … : there are a lot of designs and things. It’s hard to answer because it means I would have to just look at what people know. I could answer this question when I would be 70 years old, about to die, and look at everything I did.

For me, it’s more about a global vision, and how I navigate between different mediums and keep expressing ideas without the same protocol. I like the process. I never look at what I did and am satisfied. It takes time to enjoy what I made. The process is really what defines me.

Anok Yai by Hugo Comte

You just talked about a movie coming out. Can you tell us more about it?

Yes, it’s a short movie, about twenty minutes, and it’s coming out in a few weeks. A friend of mine said that it’s an attempt to depict the female experience through the contemplation of their mind, their inner world, and the contemplation of women together. It’s an all-girls casting, and it goes back and forth from reality to them being together. It’s very raw and very decontextualized.

From commercial photography to a coffee table book, what is your favorite way of displaying your work?

I don’t have a favorite, but I think it may be the ones to come. I think a lot about using more classical mediums, things you can find in a museum like paintings and sculptures. Take those classical methods with new topics and symbols, like creating a marble sculpture of an Air Force 1. I want to work with pop culture symbols but using classical mediums.

It’s the second time you’re displaying The Testament. Why did you decide to do it here in Antwerp at the Black Gallery?

I’m really about human connection and relationships and don’t like to work with people just for hype or business reasons. I think Rembert, the gallery director, really understood that. It’s all about working with people who understand me for who I am and understand my work without too much complication and intellectualization. Not everyone in art has this honest approach to art and the art market. It’s a lot of unnecessary blabla, and that’s not the case with Rembert.

Your work has bloomed and taken you to many different places. What is one future project that you want to do?

I would like to make a music album. With my movie coming out, I’ll also release a music album with all the soundtracks that I made. I would like to fully write, produce, and interpret a full music album with different styles. Ten songs in ten different styles: one trap, one metal music, one classical, one jazz …

‘Debunk’ by Hugo Comte at Black Gallery is still open until Sunday the 14th of May at Kloosterstraat 152 in Antwerp. 

Header and portraits Hugo Comte by Oriane Verstraeten. Co-written by Eveline Slavov Slavov.

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