Eva Hilinski

23 Sep 2024
Fashion

Palace x Vivienne Westwood: Divided Between Heritage and Commerce

Today, most major brands have engaged in at least one collaboration. Some were successful, while others were not. As collaborations have become so common, creating an exciting capsule has become increasingly challenging. The Palace x Vivienne Westwood collaboration exemplifies putting in just enough effort to attain commercial success.

From underground to worldwide influence

The conversation around similar collaborations is the question of authenticity and commercialization and whether such collaborations elevate or dilute the cultural influence of the brands involved. Both Palace and Vivienne Westwood are British brands with massive cultural presence; both have a subversive irreverent nature to them. Westwood has built her name by dressing London punks, including Sex Pistols, later continuing her designer path fueling her inspiration with history, politics, and art. Palace is a skateboarding and clothing brand highly regarded within the streetwear and skating community worldwide.

The capsule was released on September 6th, following the campaign shot by the Japanese street fashion photographer Shoichi Aoki, who wandered around London from Soho to Camden, dropping into local souvenir or vintage shops. The campaign captured the undercurrent of London’s alleys with a humorous attitude and a dose of satire.

Balancing logomania with heritage references

Commercially, the collection has good potential; it includes a fair amount of merchandise, such as hoodies, crew necks, T-shirts, and orb jewelry—all with overt branding but lacking a creative twist—good for casual consumers. On the contrary, some pieces signal affiliation less instantly: a pink boxy shirt features a teddy bear print that echoes the Bear corset from Westwood’s SS1988 ‘Pagan I’ collection. Teddy bears also manifest as charms and ‘cuddly’ bags. Two variations of corset tops appeared in the capsule; one has a print featuring Palace’s co-founder Lev Tanju’s dog, also referencing the ‘Pagan I’ collection. The other is essentially a Palace x VW version of a white logo tank top, dull despite its peculiar corset-like front hem.

The outdoor section is more exciting. The bomber jacket comes in three color options: multicolored tartan (also featured on trousers), black, and olive, with an orange lining. It is equipped with bondage straps, which were Westwood’s signature design during her “Sex” era.

Another pull from Westwood’s archives is the “Salon” print from the SS1992 collection, revived on a Gore-Tex windbreaker jacket, trousers, skirts, and skateboards. My personal favorite is the Harris tweed beret in the pink plaid. This beret features a Gore-Tex water-resistant treatment, meaning it will survive the rain, making it a good investment piece.

Does the collaboration make sense for Vivienne Westwood?

Vivienne Westwood passed away in December 2022. Her husband and long-term business partner Andreas Kronthaler has since taken over the brand. Vivienne Westwood herself approached fashion as a means of protest, a statement. She actively promoted anti-consumerism both in her speeches and her work. While the collaboration doesn’t inherently contradict her worldview, the outcome of this collection does. Because behind the commodification of her early works, the collection holds no statement. Essentially, this collection is nothing but merch.

Westwood had long outgrown her punk origins. She expressed reluctance to be associated with her early collections. Not that her desire to change the world had calmed down, although she altered her political views since then. The notion of punk fashion has changed, becoming a marketing opportunity instead. A way to sell a ‘rebel’ look. Merchandising the heritage of the house goes against Vivienne Westwood’s beliefs. As the Queen herself said, “Buy less, choose well, make it last.” Keep that in mind.

The Vivienne Westwood x Palace collection is for sale right now. 

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