Eva Hilinski

25 Oct 2024
Fashion

Is The Tabi Trend About to Collapse?

The iconic Maison Margiela Tabi shoes have become essential to the fashion enthusiast’s kit. The obsession with Tabi has spread far beyond the avant-garde community, with social media influencers appropriating them. Nonetheless, it appears that Tabi’s success might soon come to an end.

How Margiela’s Tabi turned into a cult

Leading to the debut show in 1988, ambitious to create a shoe as never seen before, Martin Margiela recalled the Japanese workers he saw in Tokyo and their flat cotton tabi shoes. He adapted the split-toe silhouette onto a leather boot with a block heel. To accent the footwear, Margiela smudged the shoes with red paint, allowing models to leave split-toed footprints on a white cloth laid out on the catwalk. Soon after the spectacular presentation, Tabi became the attribute of the anti-fashion movement. 

Tabi shoes have been rather undesirable for those outside of the accompanying aesthetic, though, within it, Tabi became collectible. The situation began to change in 2021, with a breakthrough in September 2023, when the story of the stolen Tabi went viral in the media, catapulting the shoes to the top of Lyst’s list of the hottest products. The interest in Tabi shoes has continued to grow ever since, with the ever-increasing number of Tabi variations from ballet flats to Mary-Janes to loafers and brogues offered by Maison Margiela. 

Kylie Jenner wearing Tabi ballerinas on vacation

Everyone wears Tabi! 

Before the fuss, Margiela’s Tabi belonged to a specific aesthetic. The shoes could instantly connect those who wore them, assuming similar preferences outside the clothes. When Tabi turned into a trend, those associations dissipated. The basic ‘old money’ girl could wear Tabi, another coquette one wears rose Tabi ballerinas with a strap, and another one in baggy jeans and a black pullover but with Tabi Mary-Janes on. Dua Lipa wore Tabi, Zendaya, and Kylie Jenner wore Tabi. Even Pedro Pascal wore Tabi! No wonder some old stans began to seek for a connection elsewhere. After all, seeing all kinds of celebrities wearing something precious to one’s heart, I imagine, must be rather annoying. 

The rise of “Budget alternatives,” aka fakes

Of course, the new Tabi obsession led to an increase in demand. And, as with each trend, there’s an abundance of venturers willing to make money out of it. Thus, an extreme number of dupes and contrafacts ensued. Vinted, an online platform for selling secondhand, is flooded with puppet accounts selling fake Tabi ballerinas for an average price of 250 euros, while the retail price of Maison Margiela ones is around 800 euros. Young people on TikTok, unwilling to pay monthly rent for a pair of shoes, suggest “budget alternatives” such as Raboesy and Woodchuck Sato, not to mention all the brandless dupes on Amazon, Temu, and AliExpress. This ‘democratization’ of the look has further diminished the value of the authentic Maison Margiela ones. 

by @_uio___.ia_ on Instagram

Will Tabi become uncool? 

Dr. Martens 1460 boots have gone through the same pattern. 1460 used to accompany the underground youth movements all through the 60s to the late 90s. Now, however, Dr. Martens are considered rather mediocre shoes. A countless number of mass and middle market brands have imitated the 1460 look. Masses still wear Dr. Martens. Yet, there is neither meaning nor a sense of community. Believe it or not, any trend eventually becomes ‘uncool,’ and Tabi are no exception. The crowd will get bored and move on. Is there anything wrong with it? Not at all. Will I buy Tabi anyway? Yes. 

Photo credits of header images: Vaniitas store

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