Ilaicha Vandeputte

29 Apr 2025
Fashion

On Our Radar: Marko Baković’s “Soft” Pushes the Boundaries of Footwear Design

While much of the fashion world chases spectacle, Marko Baković is doing the opposite and carves out space for nuance. His AW25 mini campaign, “Soft”, is a stripped-back study of contrast between textures, forms, and the very concept of what makes a shoe. 

Shot in Amsterdam by Nikola Lamburov and art directed by Robin Burggraad the campaign juxtaposes the bold directionality of Baković’s footwear with the softness of exposed butter-yellow foam, a material typically hidden away inside discarded mattresses. The foam becomes a symbol of the brand’s ethos, which seeks to expose the unseen layers of craftsmanship.

At the heart of Soft is a clear intention: to reimagine the inner workings of footwear design. Styled by Jip Boxstart and featuring model Emilie Montfoort, the campaign “Soft” unfolds against a tactile backdrop of resin, wood grain and metal fencing. These industrial textures give idea of a workshop, drawing attention not just to the finished shoes, but to the process behind their creation. It’s here, in this raw environment, that Baković challenges traditional notions of footwear design, exploring ornamentation and silhouette in their purest forms.

Standout pieces from the collection include the Yara Mule, with its padded bumper that wraps around an upturned toe. Its sleek, streamlined shape channels both nautical aesthetics and Eastern European Opanak shoes, while its soft structure contrasts sharply with the angular lines of the Azra Pull-On Boot, defined by razor-sharp, elongated toes. The collection also features lacquered stiletto heels and the Reza family, with rounded toe beds covered in exaggerated pointed spikes.

Each piece in the collection feels like a rethinking of the fundamentals of design, pushing the boundaries of footwear from mere accessory to an expression of art and architecture.

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