Eva Hilinski

23 Jan 2025
Fashion

Backstage at Walter Van Beirendonck Fall/Winter 2025 in Paris

Walter Van Beirendonck, as reflective as he is radically authentic, with this new collection, took a more contemplative approach. “Emphasis on NEW,” he specified in show notes. Fashion and culture, in general, are captured by nostalgia. In this climate, Van Beirendonck goes against the current — toward the future.

Focusing on tailoring, Walter combined traditional tailoring techniques, with AI-generated images and 3D-printed pieces. Tailored suits, jazzed up with playful applications, were paired with flamboyant shirts, and statement hats by legendary British milliner Stephen Jones. Silicone extraterrestrial fingers transformed the models into peculiar aliens.

“Transforming dreams from mind mirages to stand-alone pieces can be a costly journey,” Van Beirendonck explained. Taking that into account explains everything about his priorities in distributing resources — a high-quality end product, not a momentary runway spectacle; others better take an example.

Closing the show, some aliens ended up sitting on a matching couch, others stood amidst, and as the lights focused behind them, with their long silicone fingers they made peace signs.

Backstage photography by Szymon Stępniak

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