Xander Pauwels

11 May

Looking Back at Diesel FW22: OOPS Glenn Martens Did It Again…

After his creative debut at the Italian denim house with his Spring/Summer ‘For Successful living’ collection, all eyes were set on Glenn Martens this past fashion week in Milan. And yes, our Belgian native definitely delivered.

Diesel in 2022 seems to be all about the Canadian tuxedo: a Justin and Britney fever dream. It’s fun and exciting to see the brand stepping out of the shadows and getting the praise it once had in the late ’90s.

Something Old, New, Borrowed, and a lot of Blue

With four chapters to the collection—denim, utility, pop, and artisanal—Martens went back to Diesels roots by paying homage to founder Renzo Rosso’s legacy, with a modern and experimental approach on what the concept of denim means in 2022. The collection emphasizes the utility of the material and showed us a mix of both new and repurposed ways to use the fabric. It tells us a story of sustainability and reinvention.

Dissecting the Fall 2022 collection

The runway show gave us women- and menswear looks mixed together. Continuing the all-gender approach Martens gave us with his Spring/Summer 2022 collection. Overall the collection mostly consisted of various jeans, paired with fitted jackets and denim tops. Long coats and asymmetrical bodycon designs were a smart nod to Martens’ previous work at Y/Project.

The choice of using deconstruction, tailored leather biker sets, combined with branded teenie tiny crops had us dying. Not to mention the amazing utilitarian accessories and bags that were presented to us. Fall 2022 will be all about muted organic colors, jewel tones, and mixing bold pastels.

Our overall feel

Diesel especially excited us with its take on the now mega trendy mini-skirt by repurposing what looked to be denim belts. There were also—even more exciting—hard leather versions, followed by knitted metallic sets and dresses. The oversized vibrant fur-like coats in both blue and colors that hit the runway gave us utmost Cruella De Vil vibes.

It was diverting to see the smart resurfacing of the iconic original 1978 Diesel logo. By combining embroidery, hardware, subtle monogramming, and stamping, it didn’t seem overdone as opposed to what we’ve definitely seen in previous seasons. The entire storyline made sense. A mesmerizing blend of Glenn’s undoubtable talent and the brand’s rebellion feel.

Photo credits: Diesel

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