Ilaicha Vandeputte

19 May 2025
Beauty

Interview: Peter Philips on How Dior Backstage Reinvents an Icon With PH Technology

Since its debut in 2018, Dior Backstage has been all about translating professional makeup artistry into intuitive, easy-to-use products for everyone. Now, in 2025, the line enters a new era with the launch of the Rosy Glow Stick and Dior Addict Lip Glow Butter. In an exclusive conversation, Peter Philips, Creative & Image Director for Dior Makeup, shares how the brand refined an icon, and embraced pH-reactive technology. “We don’t create products to go viral,” he says. “We stand for timelessness and performance.”

Dior Backstage launched with the idea of bringing backstage expertise to everyday beauty. How has that vision evolved over the years?

“When we first launched Dior Backstage, it was our way of staying relevant in a rapidly changing beauty landscape. As a heritage brand with a strong, global presence, there’s always the risk of becoming too institutional, too classic or even outdated. Backstage was our answer to that: a line born from professional expertise, but designed to be accessible and playful.

Fast forward, and we’re speaking to an entirely new generation. These are digital natives who’ve been watching makeup tutorials since they were six, and by age twelve, they often know more than I did when I started out professionally. They’re incredibly skilled, and they demand performance, quality, and creativity. So we updated the Backstage line, not just with new shades and textures, but also with packaging that feels more current. Slightly less ‘pro kit’, slightly more playful, but still anchored in quality. I don’t create products to go viral. You can’t force a trend. We stand for timelessness, not gimmicks. And with this relaunch, we’re giving both loyal fans and new beauty lovers the tools to play, create, and express without compromising on performance.”

The Rosy Glow Stick adapts to the skin’s pH. How important is innovation in makeup today?

“First of all, I’m not a chemist, I’m the creative director. So while I don’t develop the formulas myself, I do get to witness the incredible innovation that goes into them, and I’m always in awe of what our labs manage to achieve. When I first came across pH-reactive products, even before I joined Dior, I was fascinated. How could a formula truly adapt to someone’s individual skin tone? In the beginning, pH-reactive makeup often leaned towards cooler undertones, think bright pinks or icy tones. That was simply a limitation of the technology at the time. But with years of research and close collaboration with our labs, we’ve managed to crack something really exciting: a pH formula that can also produce warm undertones. That’s a huge step forward.”

What’s even more impressive is that we developed this while staying true to the Rosy Glow DNA, keeping the effect fresh and natural while also improving performance. And all of this had to meet extremely strict international regulations, since we launch our products worldwide. That means even our internal safety and quality standards are higher than required, to ensure the formula is compliant everywhere. The new Rosy Glow Stick is the result of all those years of patience and technological advancement. Innovation is absolutely essential in makeup today.”

What made this the right moment to reinvent the iconic Rosy Glow blush?

“The Rosy Glow blush has been a huge success since the day we launched it. So the goal was never to reinvent it completely, but to refine it, fine-tune the experience while staying true to what made it iconic. We listened closely to feedback from our clients.One thing we heard was that, while the blush looked beautiful on the skin, it could sometimes be a bit stubborn to take off at the end of the day. That’s the kind of detail that matters. So we fine-tuned the formula to make it easier to remove, without compromising its performance or long-lasting finish. We also gave the packaging a fresh look. It’s now in a sleek, transparent square compact with an enhanced Dior logo, framed in silver. We boosted the branding, gave it a more ‘yummy’ appeal, something that speaks to a younger generation without alienating our loyal fans. The makeup result is still the same radiant flush, just easier, fresher, and more fun to use.”

If you had to choose one hero product from this launch to always have in your kit, which one would it be and why?

“Can I pick a set as one product? Because honestly, I would go for the Toffee set, it’s just fabulous. Don’t get me wrong, the pink one is beautiful too, but if pink isn’t your thing, you’re kind of stuck. Toffee, on the other hand, works on so many skin tones. It’s this rich nude with a bit of warmth, and it’s just a really stylish, universally flattering combo. The lip liner is more of a gel texture, and the Glow Stick has a subtle shimmer that adds a luminous finish to the skin. It reacts to your pH, but in a softer, more natural way. It’s that kind of glow that looks effortless but polished.”

Do you have a favorite backstage technique to use both the stick and the powder together?

“Yes, even though the Rosy Glow Powder isn’t technically a setting powder, it does have that effect when layered. I like to start with the Glow Stick, applying and blending it out, however you like. There’s a strong influence from Japan and Korea right now where blush is placed higher on the cheeks, almost blending into the eyeshadow, and it creates this beautiful harmony. Then, if you top it off with the powder, you lose a bit of the shine from the stick, but what you get instead is a soft, blurry glow. The powder sets the cream underneath, so it holds better and lasts longer – just like when you do a bold red lip and dab a red-toned powder over it to set and intensify. It’s a trick I use all the time backstage. So for me, the stick and the powder together is the perfect combo.”

How do you ensure Dior Backstage products are inclusive of all skin tones?

“With this new launch, I’m especially happy with the shade range we’ve developed. For deeper skin tones, we have some stunning options. One of my favorites is the Black Cherry Glow Stick—it’s rich, flattering, and blends beautifully on darker skin tones. We also created a matching Lip Glow Oil in Deep Cherry, which pairs perfectly with the stick or can be worn on its own for a glossy, natural finish. And if you’re looking for something with a rosier undertone, Rosewood is a gorgeous deep blush that complements warm and cool undertones alike.”

If you could give one message to young people looking to express themselves through makeup, what would it be?

“Oh, it’s just makeup. Don’t be afraid. We all make mistakes, it’s part of the process. And yes, there might be moments where you’ll look back and feel a little embarrassed about a bold choice or an over-the-top look. But trust me: in the long run, you won’t remember the mistake, you’ll remember the joy, the creativity, the fun you had. I started experimenting in the late ’80s, I remember going out with friends on weekends, doing each other’s makeup, messing around with hair and looks. At the time, we felt invincible. Then, a few years later, I’d look at the pictures and think, ‘Oh my God, what were we thinking?’. But now, decades later, I see those photos again and I think, ‘Actually, we looked pretty cool.’ What sticks is not the look but the feeling you had wearing it. Makeup is a powerful tool to express who you are, how you feel, or who you want to be that day. It’s about creativity and growth.”

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