Elena

19 Mar 2024
Fashion

JPG x the Guest Designers: A Brief Overview

When Jean Paul Gaultier retired from the runway in 2020, no one knew who was going to take over the creative direction of the iconic haute couture house. Fortunately, a new concept was born: haute couture guest designers. Every season a new creative in the fashion industry takes the reins at the JPG atelier.

The next designer who’s guest-directing Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture is Nicolas Di Felice, the current creative director at Courrèges. A bunch of talented designers preceded him and presented their unique interpretation of the JPG brand. The first to kick off this new concept was Chitose Abe.

Nicolas Di Felice was born in Belgium and introduced vinyl to Courrèges, as well as the staple Courrèges minidress. His Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture collection will be presented during Paris Couture Week in June. We’re guessing the collection will be influenced by The Fifth Element and ’60s sci-fi silhouettes. Let’s have a look at the six designers who came before him.

JPG x Chitose Abe

The creative director of Sacai, Chitose Abe, was the first who was given the honor of designing for Jean Paul Gaultier’s haute couture collection. Abe took inspiration from the JPG archival collections and whipped-up patchwork tattoo-printed dresses, platform boots, and ruched pinstripe silhouettes. Even though Sacai is known for its ready-to-wear collections, Chitose Abe created a perfect haute couture collection as the first guest designer. The collection included stitched-together marine and tartan prints, capturing the JPG essence.

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Chitose Abe

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Chitose Abe

JPG x Glenn Martens

Mastermind behind Y/Project and recent Diesel collections Glenn Martens was asked to create the Spring/Summer 2022 collection. As always, the Belgian designer delivered nothing short of innovative excellence. The collection featured signature Gaultier materials and shapes, such as satin corsets and voluminous gowns, mixed with Martens’ unique fashion perspective. From deconstructed tulle and organza to cinched waists, the collection blended Glenn Martens’ innovation with JPG’s sensuality and femininity.

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Glenn Martens

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Glenn Martens

JPG x Olivier Rousteing

Olivier Rousteing’s Ethiopian descent shined through in the haute couture collection he designed for Jean Paul Gaultier. He mixed the JPG marine style with Ethiopian colors and materials. The Balmain creative director included quintessential Jean Paul Gaultier cone-shaped bras, perfect tailoring, and a human-sized version of the JPG fragrance bottle.

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Olivier Rousteing

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Olivier Rousteing

JPG x Haider Ackermann

Haider Ackermann is a fashion world favorite, so it makes sense that he is one of the designers who have been given the keys to the Jean Paul Gaultier atelier. The collection was sleek and a throwback to old fashion shows, with models who walked slowly and showed off the garments as they did back in the day. Ackermann’s eye for detail showed in suits with contrast stitching, dresses resembling sea urchins, and a tracksuit made out of pins.

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Haider Ackermann

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Haider Ackermann

JPG x Julien Dossena

Julien Dossena is the creative director of Rabanne. His JPG collection included gold details and fitted embellished corsets. These details combined the essence of both Dossena’s work at Rabanne and Jean Paul Gaulthier. The collection exuded a moody aura. The models walked the runway like golden goddesses, with an occasional leopard print silhouette. Dossena was an LVMH finalist and worked with Balenciaga before becoming the Rabanne designer he is today.

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Julien Dossena

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Julien Dossena

JPG x Simone Rocha

The most recent guest designer is Simone Rocha, known for her feminine and magical designs. The Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture collection featured light colors and sensual silhouettes. There where of course JPG influences (such as the sailor look made out of bows), but everything was very Simone Rocha-coded. Simone Rocha delivered femininity and delicate florals on a platter of gothic fairytale garments.

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Simone Rocha

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Simone Rocha

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture by Simone Rocha

Photo credits: Jean Paul Gaultier

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