25 Jun 2018

Everything You Need to Know About Kim Jones’ Debut Collection for Dior Homme

The latest Paris Men’s Fashion Week, for the Spring/Summer 2019 collections, had two big debuts. One of them was Virgil Abloh’s first time designing for Louis Vuitton. The other one was Kim Jones’ long awaited debut collection for Dior Homme. And it was a debut collection to remember!

There’s a lot to say about this Dior Homme collection. After Kris Van Assche’s collections for the brand, this was a breath of fresh air. It was a collection inspired by Christian Dior’s private life and creative output. Bringing a feminine couture identity into menswear collections, Kim Jones included some of the most luxurious fabrics. A perfect example of those fabrics is Toile de Jouy, which was chosen for the original boutique at 30 Avenue Montaigne in 1947.

As for the shapes, Jones created a new Dior jacket, the tailleur oblique, executed in a featherweight cashmere and summer mohair. It wraps the body in a diagonal line, a subtle reference to the shape of Dior’s Fall 1950 collection. The floral motives were also a hint to monsieur Dior himself. Combining tradition with modernity, the British-born designer fuses references to haute couture with sportswear.

A royal affair

The Dior Homme Spring/Summer 2019 runway show was opened by Nikolai of Denmark. In a recent Instagram post, the designer explained it was a tribute to his late mother who was Danish. This was the second time for the Young royal-turned-male model to walk a show – he had previously walked one Burberry show.

Other than the fact that an actual royal opened the show, it all had something royal to it. By implementing couture vibes, the collection had a very luxurious feel to it. Unlike Abloh at Louis Vuitton, Jones’ didn’t go the streetwear way. The lace Dior logo tops were just beyond amazing and a perfect mix between couture materials and sportswear influences.

Nikolai of Denmark on the Dior Homme runway

Kim Jones’ friend zone is a great place to be

This collection wasn’t a one man show. It was a community effort. John Galliano famously bought half of Kim Jones’ graduate collection; in return, for his debut at the house Galliano once helmed, Jones reinterpreted his iconic saddlebag as a menswear accessory. Another friend of the designer: Yoon Ahn, the founder of Ambush, was enlisted to create the jewelry. The CD earrings and necklaces were especially good.

Matthew Williams of Alyx , who did his first ever runway show during Paris Men’s fashion week, was also one of the collaborators. He was asked by Jones to work on the CD belt buckles. “He designs them better than anyone else, so I wanted him on board.” Kim Jones told the press.

KAWS was everywhere

There was a monumental floral cartoon teddy bear effigy of Christian Dior by KAWS in the middle of the round runway. Having collaborated with artists before, we know that Kim Jones loves a good artistic partnership. This time, it was all about KAWS. He asked the New York-based artist to reinterpret the iconic bee emblem of the house. From key chains to the giant monument made out of flowers, KAWS was everywhere.

Photos by Patrice Stable


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