Eva Hilinski

New at MoMu Antwerp: Masquerade, Make-up & Ensor

MoMu Antwerp x Beauty Papers magazine unveils the ‘Masquerade, Make-up & Ensor’ exhibition to emanate the essential presence of makeup in the context of fashion and culture through an immersive multimedia experience.

Ensor’s masquerade

James Ensor (1860-1949), a Belgian painter who is celebrating 75 years after his death, used makeup as an instrument to highlight the artificial facades of human characters. MoMu parallels Ensor’s ideas with the works of modern makeup artists, building a bridge between the past and present. For this exhibition, makeup artist Lucy Bridge and hairstylist Eugene Souleiman translate the concepts of “Seduction,” “Betrayal,” and “Mystery,” prominent in Ensor’s work, into a short film installation.

James Ensor, The Astonishment of the Mask Wouse in Masquerade, Make-up & Ensor at MoMu – Fashion Museum Antwerp, 2024, © MoMu Antwerp, Photo: Stany Dederen

Introducing the legends 

The exhibition opens with Ensor’s paintings, video installations of Pat McGrath’s work for Maison Margiela’s 2024 couture, a bouquet of BDSM masks by Walter Van Beirendonck, magazine spreads featuring the work of Peter Philips, and wigs by Julien d’Ys.

Inge Grognard, the most influential Belgian makeup artist, is introduced with her early work for Martin Margiela, recreated on printed photographs and accompanied by the exact products Grognard used, attached in transparent plastic pockets. “Makeup and hairstyles always disappear after a fashion show or photoshoot; the only way to archive them is often through photographs or videos,” explains Elisa De Wyngaert, curator at MoMu. “For this exhibition, we experimented with more tactile ways to display and recreate the looks,” she adds.

Inge Grognard in collaboration with Ronald Stoops, 2001, © Photo: Ronald Stoops

Sexualization, aging, and AI

Through the works of Issy Wood, Harley Weir, Tschabalala Self, and Cindy Sherman, the exhibition reflects on issues such as the sexualization of women, the innate fear of aging and imperfections, and the commercialization of beauty standards.

The captivating yet unsettling film, created by photographer Éamonn Freel and makeup artist Lynski, explores the rapid changes in beauty trends accelerated by AI technologies. “In this dystopian reality, the fashion cycle becomes so short that trends emerge and fade within days, hours, or even mere seconds,” De Wyngaert explains. Furthermore, the film questions the growing detachment from natural appearances.

The exhibition runs until February 2, 2025, alongside the permanent exhibition and the MoMu x Fashion Department exhibition, which lasts until November 11.

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