Eva Hilinski

New at MoMu: Fashion & Interiors. A Gendered Affair

The new exhibition at the Fashion Museum in Antwerp, Fashion & Interiors. A Gendered Affair, curated by Romy Cockx, examines the fusion of interior design and fashion through a gender lens—not offering conclusions but rather questioning societal dynamics and the female role in design, inviting a conversation so needed today. We saw the exhibition, and here is what we noted.

Women in Interiors

The conversation begins in the late 19th century—the time when Western middle-class women had to reflect their family’s status and wealth by decorating the house and their dresses. “Women quite literally faded into their interior,” Cockx explained. Josef Hoffmann of the Wiener Werkstätte and Henry van de Velde, for example, expanded their artistic vision onto women’s wardrobes for their dress to align with the interior they belonged to.

The exhibition is composed of interesting juxtapositions. Heading into 20th-century modernism, Cockx, quite wittily, puts Adolf Loos—an Austrian architect and polemicist of modern architecture—and Lilly Reich, a modernist German interior designer, in the same room for Reich to be an immediate counter-argument to Loos’s misogynistic rhetoric.

In parallel, Cockx examines the bourgeois idea of ‘domesticity’—elements of it found in the works of Dries Van Noten, Marine Serre, and Craig Green—and contrasts it with current themes of nomadism and displacement in the collections of Hussein Chalayan, Maison Margiela, and Viktor & Rolf.

The Influence of Lilly Reich

For the opening on Saturday, MoMu invited Stine Liv Buur and Robin Schuldenfrei to talk about women in design and the influence of Lilly Reich—the first woman appointed to the Deutsche Werkbund’s governing board in 1920. Collaborating with Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, Reich received less credit for her work. The exhibition features the Barcelona daybed, reproduced under Mies van der Rohe’s name, now known to have been designed by Reich thanks to handwriting forensics.

“Mies van der Rohe had an incredible sense of space. Reich added a sense of color,” Schuldenfrei noted about Villa Tugendhat. Since Reich has no foundation, Buur explained, changing credits would pose a legal challenge. Even then, Reich’s archive was destroyed during World War II, and she died shortly after, making it nearly impossible to know the exact nuances of their working relationship. Buur pointed out that Mies van der Rohe did not design furniture before he met Lilly Reich, nor did he after her.

Entering designers’ spaces 

Even though the late 19th to 20th-century retrospective gives a complex overview of gender dynamics of that time, the angle does not follow in the contemporary segment; instead, the focus shifts to how interior design becomes a catalyst and an extension of one’s artistic expression. The exhibition features Maison Guiette, a studio house designed by Charles-Édouard Jeanneret-Gris, better known as Le Corbusier, that Ann Demeulemeester and her husband Patrick Robyn have bought and maintained since 1983. The house’s minimalist design had influenced Demeulemeester’s work, Spring/Summer 1996 collection to the greatest extent. “I said no to anything that looks like decoration. I had never gone that far before,” Ann noted at the time.

For this exhibition, Martin Margiela reconstructed his spaces of the time at the helm of the Maison, the atelier, the showroom, and his private office. Entering the space feels exceptionally intimate; even though the office is enclosed in glass, the desk piled with papers and objects creates an illusion of Margiela coming back any minute now.

Another highlight is Raf Simons’s graduation furniture set, who has no former fashion design education but a bachelor in furniture design. “Already then it was clear that he wants to become fashion designer,” Cockx notes, smilingly, alluding to corset reference in his design.

Meryll Rogge x MoMu Antwerp x Vitra Partner Store Antwerp

As a part of Fashion & Interiors. A Gendered Affair, Belgian designer Meryll Rogge becomes a new resident at Vitra Partner Store Antwerp. Setting up a research room, Rogge began with the Vitra Eames Chair, reproducing it in British heritage wool from Moorehouse & Brook—a prestigious mill that usually develops textiles for outerwear and tailoring, Rogge explained.

The intention was to keep the formality of the office while ensuring the comfort of the setting. “I wanted the room to be tactile and protective, using a lot of different textures that create unexpected contrasts,” Rogge noted.

The room is on view until the 30th of September 2025 at Vitra Partner Store Antwerp, Sint-Antoniusstraat 12, on Tuesday from 1 pm to 6 pm, Wednesday–Friday from 10:30 am to 6 pm, and Saturday from 10 am to 6 pm.

Fashion & Interiors. A Gendered Affair is on view until the 30th of September 2025 at MoMu – Fashion Museum Antwerp

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