Enfnts Terribles

Fendi

Let’s start the Milan Men’s Fashion Week review with a thank you note to one of our favorite Italian label du moment, Fendi. It was one of those Milan shows we were looking forward to seeing. Silvia Venturini, creative director of Fendi,  designed a Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear Collection that was inspired by elements of her out-of-the-city life outside of Rome, where she takes care of her garden and grows her vegetables and roses. No joke! However, that also explains why the show was held at the gardens Villa Reale in Milan.

For their SS2020 menswear collection, Fendi delivered good looks. A few silhouettes were clean and modern, as we know the brand to be. While other looks reflected Silvia Venturini’s love for gardening even more. Out of this mixture there were also many interesting manbags born. So, ladies and gentleman, we advise you to save up money because new investment pieces are coming your way.

Stella McCartney

With this spring 2020 Menswear Collection, Stella McCartney wanted you to forget fashion for a moment and enjoy the natural beauty around. Their SS2020 menswear lookbook made sure we’d think about planet earth again. What better way to move her core audience than to design a jumpsuit with a satellite-view print. She also used animal and floral prints in the collection, to remind you that we have to cherish our beloved planet.

S. R. Studio

This wasn’t Sterling Ruby’s first encounter with fashion. The American artist worked with Raf Simons for several of his collections, including a Fall 2012 Couture Collection for Dior. The two geniuses started collaborating in 2009 when they teamed up on a capsule collection of bleached jackets and denim.

This time, Sterling Ruby presented his very first SS20 men’s collection during Milan Men’s Fashion Week. What captivated us during the show were the denim pieces in acid pink, yellow and blue.

Etro

What’s up with the hideous menswear collections for Spring 2020 season? We honestly always give a second chance to labels that don’t deliver progressive work because everybody loves a good happy ending. However, Etro’s case is different.

Despite the fact that they do have nice bohemian style pieces to wear at a summer festival, we were never a fan of their brand aesthetic, to begin with. Nonetheless, this Spring 2020 Menswear Collection was really bad and the Star Wars references on the tops didn’t save the mess from happening.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Ferragamo’s eyewear department is where our love-relationship with the Italian label started. That led to us low-key checking out their collections season after season. However, we spotted a few timeless trends in their Spring 2019 they previewed in London.

Think sexy neutrals for every age, modern see-through pieces, interesting color combinations and on point tailoring… just the way we like it. We were also very happy to see the diversity on his runway.

Givenchy

Givenchy showed its new SS20 Menswear Collection in the gardens of the Villa Palmieri in the Florentine Palace, where Queen Victoria once stayed for a vacay. One more time, Grace Waight Keller unexpectedly surprised us with her creations. It was basically a well-executed mix between modern tailoring, Korean street culture and her memories from the 1990s.

We must say, the Korean influences in this collection are a major yes. Simply because we have been tapping into Korean culture through TV-shows and movies (with subtitles of course) and were left mesmerized by the amount of style they have.

Marni

Marni, as usual, was very playful with funny details. We also spotted many berets, well-tailored high-waist pants and funky looks in their SS20 Menswear Collection. Which we always appreciate from designer Francesco Risso. Because he does it in such a timeless and refined way. We feel like this Spring collection can make you look like a rich kid but in a good way.

Versace

For this SS20 Menswear Collection, Maison Versace paid tribute to Keith Flint, who died back in March. He’s an old friend of Donatella Versace herself. Keith Flint died in Milan where he performed for the last time.

When it comes down to the collection, opinions are divided at the Enfnts Terribles HQ. Some of us think Versace just wasn’t the same since the Michael Kors takeover, even though Donatella still has creative control. While others are contemplating Donatella’s body of work as if Michael Kors never took over. Either way, it seems like the brand never stopped delivering sexy and outspoken silhouettes on their runway.

Andrea Pompilio

For some brands organizing a show isn’t necessary and to be honest, it’s just time for all parties. Italian label, Andrea Pompilio, seems to understand that. Instead of faking it until they make it, Maison A.P. always drops their seasonal lookbook.

When it comes to Spring 2020 menswear, the dress code chez Andrea Pompilio is playful. Think stripes, plaid, bright and bohemian prints. Anyhow, we loved seeing their timeless style staples and our team of menswear editors is already imagining and going through the thousands of styling possibilities for this SS2020 collection.

Marcelo Burlon County of Milan

After watching the entire Marcelo Burlon SS2020 men’s show, we were left with a bitter been-there-done-that feeling. On one side, the female looks had similarities with a Yeezy collection. On the other side, the designer’s outerwear approach was a smart choice for him. At least now, when you buy a Marcelo Burlon piece, it feels like you bought something of quality that is functional. But to be very honest, if we want to shop for sportswear, we’ll go to Nike. Thank you, next!

A lot of Marcelo Burlon silhouettes didn’t leave us in awe, and the times that it did, it was because we worked with the model wearing a particular silhouette (shout out to Ruslan).

Emporio Armani

At first, we wanted to skip and completely ignore the existence of Emporio Armani’s Spring 2020 Menswear Collection but we need to do this. “Oh my god”, that was our first reaction to the next hideous runway collection from an Italian label. Like we said before, some labels don’t need to organize a show during fashion week. It’s time consuming and when your collection is this uninteresting it’s a waste of time.

The runway silhouettes were boring and even the casting wasn’t on point. It seems like the acclaimed Italian label is stuck in the 2000s. However, the Armani boys wore chunky sneakers, so maybe their footwear department did make it to the year 2016.

In order to keep up, we think it’s healthy to consider hiring another head of design.

Dsquared

The thing with Dsquared is that we wouldn’t buy it now, or maybe ever. But our point is, they are very good at what they’re good at. Which is designed denim pants, shoes and accessories. Basically, the pieces that bring in the big cash. They don’t necessarily inspire us. However, our three favorite silhouettes we spotted on their SS20 runway were of good taste and very sexy too.

Photo credits: Vogue Runway