ENFNTSTERRIBLES

29 Jun
Fashion

What We Remember from Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS20

Paris Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 was good. Luxury is surely but slowly dethroning streetwear of the runway and we love it. Give us that typical French luxury back! From Dior Homme to Dries Van Noten, find out who and what stuck with us, and why, in our runway review of Paris Men’s Fashion Week.

Dior Homme

Kim Jones took us back to different eras. From the era when Christian Dior was known for making classic suits to the Dior by John Galliano era and beyond. Together with American artist Daniel Arsham, whose job it is to anticipate future archeology. Meaning what people will make of the cultural traces the previous generations leave behind. So, the John Galliano references that were strongly present on the Dior Men runway, were the results of Kim Jones digging through the Dior archive. You could tell by the signature newspaper print on clothes and manbags.

What we won’t forget about Dior Homme’s SS20 collection is the on point tailoring. One of our favorite Kim Jones pieces were the suits with the diagonal satin sash. A technique from the women’s couture side of the house.

What We Remember from Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS2020

Dior Men Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Berluti

Berluti’s collection was luxurious as always. The leather suit is a dream, the details and tailoring are remarkable. It’s actually super hard to tailor a leather garment, so this suit shows a big amount of skills from the Berluti team. Although Berluti is a menswear brand, they created some beautiful womenswear.

Kris Van Assche again mixed tailoring with moto-inspired pieces to evoke the complementary interplay of heritage values and fashion-forwardness he is working to achieve. Not the first, nor the last time you will hear us say that Belgians do it better.

Berluti at Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS2020

Berluti Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Kenzo

This was the last collection of creative heads Carol Lim and Humberto Leon for Kenzo. This might actually be one of their best. Their collection was the perfect goodbye, they gave us some throwbacks to their past collections. But they also looked forward and brought us some refreshing new looks. The collection is very wearable featuring some unique accessories like the fancy fishnet sleeves dotted with pearls and more camp-inspired looks. Carol Lim and Humberto Leon ended in style and in cuteness. By bringing their kids on the runway for their last final walk. They will forever be remembered by Kenzo, and not only because they are the minds behind the iconic house, its best-selling Tiger merch, and giant eyes.

Kenzo at Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS2020

Kenzo Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Celine

Celine was one of the last fashion houses of Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS2020, but definitely not the least. Hedi Slimane did it again; a collection with on point tailoring. For this collection Celine worked together with five different artists for artwork on the pieces; David Kramer, Zach Bruder, Andre Butzer, Darby Milbrath, and Carlos Valencia. Which resulted in a beautiful collection. We spotted the leopard trend once again in this collection. The glitter pieces were everything though. We do have to admit Heidi is one of the few designers who can make glittery things not look cheap. Also, can we take a moment to talk about the pants? The design is everything. We’re here for the perfectly high-waisted tailored pants. Thank you, Hedi, for giving us this flair. Hopefully, these pants will become mainstream.

But if we are completely honest, we do have to admit that we did like the previous collection better.

Celine at Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS2020

Celine Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Hermès

Véronique Nichanian at Hermès is everything we needed and more. The collection was simple yet super luxurious. Typical French luxury was served, and we were hungry for that. She used a basic color palette of ice cream colors. A very wearable collection featuring great clothing pieces and good accessories. Although this wasn’t the most extraordinary collection, it still inspired us and that’s what counts.

Hermès at Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS2020

Hermès Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Alyx

We’re happy that Alyx kind of reinvented themselves for Spring/Summer 2020. This collection gave us a lot less streetwear and way more tailored and luxurious looks. Since we were getting a little bit tired of the streetwear looks dominating the runway, this show was refreshing. But we have to admit that even the remaining streetwear looks were good, because of the silhouettes Matthew Williams used. Also spotted; bike shorts for men! And that wasn’t the only time we spotted those on the runway.

A very cute detail was that Matthew Williams let his wife walk in the show. So adorable!

Alyx at Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS2020

Alyx Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Ludovic de Saint Sernin

One thing that’s for sure true about this collection is that it was the sexiest collection of Paris Fashion Week. The opinions about this collection are very mixed. There are of course – as always – some bootlickers that swear this collection is to die for. There are some haters as well. As for us, we must say this is definitely a sexy collection with good pieces. But this was surely not made for everyone. Sometimes the collection even felt a little too exclusive and pretentious at times.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin at Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS2020

Ludovic de Saint Sernin Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Y/Project

How can you not deliver a stunning collection with the incomparable Glenn Martens at the helm of your creative team? It seems like with every collection the Belgian designer keeps innovating and inspiring us. When you’re in for a Y/Project show, you won’t get bored easily.

Glenn Martens is one of those superstar designers that can successfully borrow old pieces or shapes to revive them in a unique and humoristic way. For their SS2020 menswear at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, they took their guests to a church at the Louvre. Not to pray for those who have sinned, no. But to show the latest novelties of the brand and it’s very promising. On the Y/Project Runway, we spotted a ruffle-shaped trench coat, an asymmetric shirt, reworked denim and much more that we can’t wait to see in stores next season.

We say it often, but it’s true; Belgians do it better.

Y/Project at Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS2020

Y/Project Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten was perfection, he is most definitely the King of Colors. We might even call him the best colorist of this time. The collection was a flawless blend of all kinds of men, color, prints, and fabrics. The prints he used were astonishing, we even loved his leopard. The collection was so good we already gave it an in-depth review.

Dries Van Noten at Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS2020

Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Louis Vuitton

Virgil Abloh, Men’s Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton, created a beautiful collection inspired by the habitual and the natural. A big part of the collection are flowers, the wonders of nature. We’ve also spotted a lot of pastel colors, something we saw coming back a lot this Fashion Week. We must admit that Virgil has a great eye for details. The bags are just literal perfection. If you want to take a closer look at the collection, go check out the livestream!

Can we also take a moment to appreciate the scenery? Virgil wanted to create a combination of the ordinariness of everyday life with the idea of boyhood bliss. Combining the beautiful Parisian architecture of the Place Dauphine and that typical boyhood bliss –  a bouncy castle, ice cream and pancakes, balloons, and kite-flying made a perfect story. Virgil definitely succeeded in telling his story and showing the inspiration behind the collection.

Louis Vuitton at Paris Men’s Fashion Week SS2020

Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Jacquemus

Simon Porte Jacquemus took his guests to the countryside on the fields of Valensole, in the Aix-en-Province, for the brand’s 10-year anniversary show. Also, the designer’s first decade was celebrated with a party that included the crème de la crème. But let’s get down to business. Influenced by the paintings of David Hockney, the Jacquemus runway was a pink carpet in the midst of a lavender field. “Provencal Pop”, as he calls it. Yes, the collection immediately went viral but how interesting was it?

Jacquemus is known for his desirable resort-y clothing pieces. However, the SS20 menswear collection he presented had many wearable pieces, a few must-haves and it-bags here and there. We never knew we needed a flashy pink oversized blazer until we saw it on a Jacquemus runway.

Plus, you just can’t ignore that long pink runway!

Jacquemus Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

GmbH

Next up on our Paris Men’s Fashion Week favorites list is GmbH. This Parisian-based label always finds new ways to excite and innovate. It’s at the Institut National de Jeunes Sourds de Paris that GmbH revealed their next seasonal collection full of well-tailored and luxurious pieces. To be honest, we expected them to take the “luxury streetwear” route but surprised us with a high-end collection that was well put together.

What we remember was the detailing. Whether it was the wrap around the pink coat, the amulets pinned on blazers or used as a print.

GmbH Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Rick Owens

Rick Owens was very Rick Owens, which is perfectly fine. No fire or crazy acrobatics this time but, as always, a well-exhibited collection. The show was named after his grandmother’s maiden name: Tecuatl. This collection was the first one where he used his Mexican roots as an inspiration. The inspiration is very subtle though, as Owens explains: “I loved that combination of modernism with something so ancient. Looking at the drawings they made that were inspired by the sites was the Mexico angle I wanted.” A nice touch that Owens added to the collection is that some of the clothing pieces and jewelry will be sold to benefit the UFW (United Farm Workers), a labor union for farmworkers in America.

Rick Owens

Rick Owens Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Vetements

Next up is Vetements’ SS20 menswear show that took place in the McDonald’s on the Champs Élysées. We don’t know if owning new Vetements garments is what we need for our future wardrobes. However, one coat, that low-key looked like a tablecloth, seemed nice. Our overall impression is that once again Demna Gvasalia didn’t bring anything new to the table for Vetements.

One thing we did like was the inclusivity of the show. Just the thought of randomly bumping into a fashion show in the center of Paris excites us. Now, imagine if the silhouettes were five times better and on point.

Vetements Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Raf Simons

We love Raf. And since there were a lot of references to Antwerp, we have to stan even more. Calling out America and president Trump is also big dick energy. But if we are completely honest, we would love to see him take some bigger risks next season. Especially now that he’s free from Calvin Klein. Do not interpret this the wrong way, though, we loved a lot of his looks and if we could afford it, we would buy some pieces. But we would love to see him step out of his comfort zone. Because there is no denying it, rage and alienation were nothing new for the designer.

Raf Simons

Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Balmain

June 21st Paris was on fire. Entire streets were closed and filled with people drinking, singing, dancing and enjoying live performances. During “La Fete de la Musique” in Paris, which is also the longest night of the summer, Balmain threw a festival where they presented their new SS2020 Menswear Collection.

What we remembered is that Olivier Roustaing sent an army of Balmain boys and girls wearing amazing PVC and metallic jackets. We totally ignored the pleated hammer pants and hideous shoes, because the jackets were so intriguing.

Balmain Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Walter Van Beirendonk

We hate to say this, but this show was a bit of a mess. A lot of the clothing pieces looked cheap in real life and the whole collection felt like a costume-like, clownish kind of thing. But sometimes it was just the styling that was a bit off. Because if you take a closer look at the clothing pieces separately, there are definitely some good bits. For example, almost most all the pants and shorts were good, we liked the (black) glitter fabrics. Interesting costume cardigans as well. But everything with those weird dots was just … special. Just like the leggings and plastic-looks. We do have to admit that the theme, Alien Vintage, was well executed, it’s just not our thing. And we can’t help but wonder for whom it is a thing.

It is remarkable that both Walter Van Beirendonk and Thom Browne both created a very costume-like collection. If this is a trend for 2020, we will definitely skip it.

Walter Van Beirendonk

Walter Van Beirendonk Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Valentino

Valentino, Valentino, Valentino! We loved this collection. Another brand that proved that luxury is the new streetwear. The whole collection was beautiful. And the shirts … *gasp*. Totally up our ally. The print is just pure perfection and very luxurious without being pretentious. Just like the accessories. Matching hats with the shirts? Yes, please. The jewelry, belts, and bags were on point as well.

Piccioli, shine on you crazy diamond.

Valentino

Valentino Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Acne Studios

Once again Acne Studios showed a clean and very Acne Studios-ish collection. It was very basic with earth-like tones, in other words, nothing new. However, what we will remember from this collection, besides the woven pieces and Johanssen’s love for detail, is the beige/brown SS20 men’s silhouette with a printed bike short.

The bike short trend was huge amongst women only, now the style trend has finally reached the menswear department. And, we’re liking this trend and hope to see more and more guys wear them.

Acne Studios Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Loewe

Just last year Loewe was London-based, however, they recently made the decision to take their brand to Paris, where most of the big houses are located. Of course, they didn’t leave behind their creative designer Jonathan Anderson, who presented the SS2020 menswear collection for Loewe in Paris.

Although it wasn’t our favorite Loewe collection the brand has shown, it still was a nice one. Nothing exceptional to be spotted on Loewe’s SS20 runway show except for their long suède tunics and the guys wearing the timeless Gate bags in different sizes.

Loewe Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

Lanvin

Next up is Lanvin with a very playful menswear collection during Paris Men’s Fashion Week. This time designer Bruno Sialelli delivered something less wearable than the previous spring collection.

Yet, we did like their menswear because it reminded us of our summer holidays growing up. Think sailor-collar leather jackets, nautical foulards, modern manbags and knitwear, just to name a few things that remind us of our childhood. Plus, is it just us or does the sailor-collar tops resemble the ones from Sailor Moon.

Lanvin Spring/Summer 2020 Menswear

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